Bonsai–an art that has been acquired from the an ancient Japanese practice that is a part of their culture–is a method for growing trees.

Research has shown that Bonsai as an art form was originally found in China but was later borrowed and further developed in Japan. In Bonsai the artist grows little trees, that appear to be miniature versions of larger trees, that are potted in small decorative, shallow containers. The art of Bonsai grooms a small tree into a more “adult” idealized form. You can decide whether you want the tree to be extremely complicated or a very simple form–it is up to the artist to decide. In the art of Bonsai, the only thing that matters is the tree–pots and material are very secondary–and how the tree is used to express a concept and beauty in natural form. A well crafted Bonsai tree is an arresting, beautiful sight that captures the imagination of the beholder and creates within them a unique experience. A Bonsai tree can inspire, delight, soberness, silence, or simply charm anyone who gazes upon it. In some, a Bonsai can elicit a shudder as the viewer suddenly recognizes the transitory nature and brevity of life itself.

Over a long period of time, in Japan Bonsai were cultivated using native small trees–once demand increased they could not keep up so had to find other trees. This was a catalyst for Bonsai gardeners in Japan to search out different indigenous trees and create Bonsai methods for transforming them. With these trees they created different shapes that offered the illusion of advanced age. Bonsai art, however, has entered a whole new era with its popularity in the US and with this popularity have come new advancements in creating the little trees. When compared with ancient Japanese stylistic tendencies, the artistic proclivities for bonsai gardening in the US is far more complex, yet looser in terms of context and style.

The tree type you choose for a Bonsai tree is very important if you wish to create an artful and expressive bonsai. You should know that not every plant is suitable for creating a bonsai. The idea that underpins a Bonsai is the develop a realistic expression of a tree that is far older than the one being used–you will need to find a tree that has all parts in proportion and symmetrical like its: trunk, twigs, branches, buds, flowers, fruits and roots. The plant that you decide to use should always have very small leaves. If you use a plant with larger leaves, your Bonsai will not have the proper symmetry or proportion (plants like sycamores, avocado and mangoes). Different species of oak or maple are usually the best choice because they do really well with the methods that are used to create an idealized bonsai image. These trees have the proper proportion and symmetry in the leaves and this is very important. You can also you spruce, zelkova, pine, and pomegranate to cultivate the perfect little bonsai tree.

When you are making a Bonsai tree you are creating a living art piece so the plants you choose should pique your artistic tendencies and express them. You will want a plant that has lovely bark that can provide the illusion that is a mature plant. You may need to shorten the main branches. By doing so, you will create a better vertical line and direct the eye up and it will also aid the trunk and give it a more proportional appearance.

You must carefully decide and plan how you will give the illusion of age and carefully expose the top third of the plants root system when it starts to mature. The whole effect the Bonsai should give is that it is balanced and could easily float upon the air. The trees branches are used to create dimension and form for the bonsai. It is imperative that the branches are proportional and that everything is in symmetry with each other.

“Bonsai art is the display of a landscape – without the landscape.” – Nobu Kajiwara

This quote could not ring any truer. Raising and shaping bonsai trees could be a very pleasing pastime. Doing this is a hobby, although it requires a great deal of patience. When one takes a plain sapling and shapes it to their wish, they are recompensed with an intricate piece of art to really take pride in.

The word “bonsai” plainly means “in a pot”, or, “tray planting”. On the other hand, bonsai is a lot more than just a potted plant. Producing the look of large size and age is the objective of bonsai. This is achieved by making a bonsai with firm roots that go in all different ways, forming a feeling of stability, a large trunk which narrows as it extends higher, a clear summit, and shapely, orderly branches. These characteristics unite to make a thorough mix of evenness, quantity and poise. Additionally, it needs to be put into a pot that goes well with the plant itself.

Bonsai is the art of raising trees in a small place to produce specific ecological conditions like extreme weathering, old age, setting, contorted or twisted appearance and other factors. Bonsai trees are meant to emulate and take a likeness from nature. The concept of bonsai is to reinvent some of the natural world’s most breathtaking, gorgeous effects on trees that are reduced in size.

When dealing with bonsai, you are initiating an experience that will spread your horizons in many ways. You could discover a new feeling of respect for nature; you might start observing trees, shrubs and bushes in a new light. You will definitely find yourself admiring all the “worst parts” of your local green houses where they grow the kinds of plants people never like to see. How the art of bonsai will change you is as random as nature’s way in itself, but know this: bonsai will change your pereception of many things.

In Japan, there is a connection to a lot of the ideals which their society is founded upon. Zen Buddhism – where this pasttime began, man elements, nature and change are all connected in this special method of expression and meditation. In today’s world, bonsai is seen as a hobby that enables a more extended comprehension and being with nature, as well as a method to better our gardens.

The tree and pot incorporated into bonsai make one balanced unit where the form, shade and texture are one and compliment one another. Next, the tree must be sculpted. Simply planting a tree in a pot and letting nature do the rest is not substantial – the outcome would be nothing like a tree, and it would not last long. Each twig and branch of a bonsai is formed or reduced until the selected image is accomplished. From that point on, the image is kept up and enhanced by a persistent routine of pruning and clipping.

Bonsai is the art form of dwarfing plants or trees and creating them into a appealingly attractive form by growing, clipping and preparing the trees into containers consistent with arranged methods.

All in all, bonsai is a deep interest, hobby or even an occupation to have. Even though well-known theologians have said that it is really 90% of art to a mere 10% of cultivation, it should be stated that a fruitful bonsai is certainly a horticultural work of art.

After coming to Western civilization, this pleasant and satisfying activity has never been returned, and has acquired an incredibly varied array of plant materials and methods.

When provided appropriate upkeep, bonsai can live up to hundreds of years, with prized showpiece being carried on from generation to generation, respected for their age, and venerated as a memento of those who have taken care of them over the centuries. Even though these bonsai trees are very pretty; precisely taken care of throughout the years and withholding a great abundance of wisdom, age is not crucial. It is more essential that the tree creates the artistic effect wanted, that it be in the appropriate amount and in overall healthy condition.

Bonsai stands as a creative depiction of a natural tree. It is a representation, a naturalistic impression. The senses are defied by smoke and mirrors. The finest bonsai are magician’s tricks that have duped the naked eye into seeing a remote place in the vague past, or the edge of a rocky cliff. All of us need to aim to be a magician.

In this site, you will be presented with bonsai methods and information on how to raise your own unique bonsai works of art. The attractiveness of bonsai is that there is no specific “right way” to get it done. We will provide many hints, tips and resources on creating your own bonsai. Come into the world of bonsai and acquire a fresh awareness of life!

When just getting started, you need to keep in mind that there is no one “right” bonsai style. The goal when a shaping and creating your bonsai is trying to fashion a representation of a tree in its natural environment. How YOU visualize that tree is most important determining element in creating a bonsai masterpiece. To create your own bonsai, you just need a little simple instruction – it doesn’t require lessons from a bonsai master. You just need to follow your instincts to bring the bonsai you mentally picture to realization.

Making your bonsai tree look as natural as you can should be your main goal. When shaping your bonsai, let yourself be guided by the tree itself. If your bonsai seems to want to bend to the right, let the trunk do just that. Let the stand-out features of your bonsai guide your work. In order to hear what the tree is trying to tell you, just simply listen closely. Pay careful attention to the bonsai’s softly whispered suggestions – it will lead you to create a breath-taking work of art!

The best bonsais look like ancient trees.  Though it’s miniature in form, your bonsai tree should appear strong and mature. With the proper grooming techniques, even the youngest of bonsais can be made to look as if it has majestically weathered many seasons.

The diameter and the degree of taper of the tree trunk are the two distinguishing features that help a bonsai tree to appear developed and aged. The base of the trunk is usually very wide with the majority of bonsai styles, and the it will generally lead to a smooth taper as it reaches the tree’s top.

Bonsai trees are generally seen in one of two general styles, either the koten (classic) or the bunjin (comic or informal). The koten style displays a trunk that is wide at the base which tapers off at the top – the more difficult style is the bunjin which has a trunk characterized by a narrow, tapered foundation that widens as it climbs.

You need to bare in mind that you are working with a living plant when you begin your bonsai. You may find that your bonsai’s natural characteristics invite a certain style or styles, if you pay attention.   Whether your tree is slender and elegant like a maple or essentially upright like a beech, you can often train a bonsai into growing in several styles. Even bonsais that are particular suited to a certain style can be interpreted and cultivated in countless ways.

However, one thing you should never do is to try and force a style on a bonsai tree that is unaccustomed to it. Simple enhance and enrich the natural shape intended by your tree by carefully analyzing its natural growth patterns. There are five basic styles of bonsai trees: cascade, semi-cascade, formal upright, informal upright and slanting (a/k/a windswept). There is a unique beauty and peacefulness inherent in each of these styles.

What follows is a more complete description of the styles of bonsai…

In order to train a bonsai to grow in a style like formal upright, you must raise and cultivate it in perfect conditions. The essential aspect of the formal upright style is having a perfect straight trunk, which tapers from the base to the top in a natural, even manner. No matter what direction the tree is viewed from, this style should appear to have symmetrically spaced branches which are naturally balanced. The formal upright is one of the more demanding styles.

Some great tree varieties to try and train in the formal upright style include pines, junipers and spruces.

You need to make sure that you can see approximately one third of the trunk when viewed from the front in order to create a true formal upright style. This can be as viewed cumulatively, through the arrangement of the branches, or from the base of the bonsai to its first branch.

There should be a distinct natural pattern with the general placement of the branches. The longest branch should be the one closest to the base, which is usually trained and trimmed to a length about one third the height of the bonsai. Almost in a right angle to the tree’s trunk, this will be the “heaviest” branch.

The branch directly above this is grown in the opposite direction from the first branch. The branches are trained into a tapering cone-like shape as the structure of the bonsai ascends.

The mass of needles or leaves that adorns the top of the bonsai is full and thick, expanding out so that, looking down from above the tree, one would find it difficult to make out the internal structure of the branches.

In an effort to give the appearance of “looking at the viewer”, the tip of a formal upright style bonsai leans forward with a slight curve. It is not necessary for the tree to be perfectly symmetrical, as some species will call for you to alternate the branches on each side as they ascend.

There is always a very distinctive tapered characteristic to the trunk and branches of a bonsai in the formal upright style. Every new year, one prunes the trunk or branch by cutting off the growing tip and reforming the apex by wiring a new branch into position to maintain the all-important taper. While training a bonsai in the formal upright style can be somewhat difficult, when the taper becomes gracefully prominent as the trunk begins to fully develop, the  breath-taking result is worth all the effort.

In their natural habitat, these trees twist or change their angle past the breezes, shade, additional trees, buildings, or in the direction of sunlight. For an informal upright bonsai, its trunk needs to be a bit bent to the left or right, but this should never be up to the observer. This is true for all kinds of bonsai. The branches and trunk should not be angled at the observer while the bonsai is being surveyed from the front.

For this approach, test out a Trident maple, Japanese maple or almost any kind of ornamental or conifer tree you can think of. You will notice a major effect with any flowering trees or pomegranates. An informal upright bonsai pretty much employs the same standards as the formal upright bonsai, except for the fact that it is informal. This type still necessitates an elongated trunk, although the angle of the trunk and branch placement are more informal and more similar to the way a tree appears when subjected to the elements at a young stage in its life. Generally, the trunk will develop an unprecedented arc or sequence of coils, and therefore the branches are placed in such a way that evens out this effect.

Just as it is with a formal upright, the tree’s crown is mostly filled with greenery and, in spite of the informal trunk, it is usually found right over the base of the tree. This is a quality of the informal upright form, and if it is not conducted in this way, the tree will be at a slant. Jin, which is the carved remnants of dead (or undesired) branches made to appear like dead and rotting tree limbs, is additionally more appealing and efficient for the informal upright style.

The outcome of substantial shade and buff setting winds throughout the beginning is trees which naturally lean in one direction. Regardless of being straight or bowed, an entire tree trunk is inclined at a fixed angle. Firmer roots will develop on the outside, past the inclination of the trunk’s angle, in order to hold up its weight.

Nearly any kind of tree can function well with this design. This design withholds a strong likeness to the natural upright. The trunk could turn out either straight or bent, but it needs to be at either a left or right angle (never towards the front), with its apex located indirectly above the bonsai’s base.

This happens to be a very plain style that can be accomplished in many different ways. In its first year, the bonsai can be prepared at an angle through wiring the trunk until it has reached the right position. On the other hand, a tree can be made to grow in a slanted direction by placing the pot itself at an angle, thus making the tree unusual.

With the formal upright, slanted styles and informal upright, the number three has an important role.

The bottommost branches are assembled in threes, and this cluster starts 1/3 of the way up the trunk. The latter three branches nearly go around the trunk entirely, with two branches extended out in front, with one being a bit higher than another. The third branch, which extends from a spot flanked by the first two, is placed at such an angle to create an illusion of the foliage being lower than the other two.

This shape exhibits a simple method to tell the back from the front while setting the tone of the whole arrangement.

The tip of the bonsai that grows goes below the bottom of the the pot it is in. Giving an impressive display, the trunk has natural convex shape that makes it seem as if it is fighting against gravity. The branches spread upwards as if grasping light. Like a stream finding its way down the mountains, the main part of the trunk twists and turns upwards.

You can create a cascading bonsai from various different trees. The trick is to find a tree that doesn’t have naturally a straight standing trunk. It is suggested to not attempt to make a tree with a naturally straight trunk into a cascading bonsai. This type of bonsai can be very attractive looking if done correctly. With the convex trunk, it grows below the pot as if gravity itself was pushing it down forcing it out of the bottom. The trunk of the tree too appears as if it is a stream branching off into many other smaller streams through its branches.

All you need to preform this cascading style is a very tall and slim pot which can boost the type of bonsai and work well with the type of plant you will be using.

The main part of the trunk should be tied down so it spills over the side of the pot focusing on big bend creating a U shape. Also you should keep the branches as they normally would be, and horizontal so it is nearly vertical to the trunk. A big thing to remember if you are going to attempt a cascading style bonsai is that you need to place the planet right in the middle of the pot opposed to one side like you would in a normal bonsai.

Much like a cascade bonsai, a semi-cascade bonsai projects over the rim of the container; however, unlike the cascade, a semi-cascade does not drop below the base. This occurs naturally with trees that hang over water or grow on cliffs. Even if the plant grows well below the level of the rim of the pot, the angle of the trunk of a semi-cascade will be imprecise as long as the effect is strongly horizontal. The trunk is balanced by the exposed roots.

The best trees to use for this type of bonsai are junipers, cedars, and cherry trees that are flowering. This style of bonsai is often seen as the most beautiful of any bonsai types.

Most consider bonsai cultivation to be an outdoor rather than an indoor art. However, since bonsai involves miniaturizing trees, and the word literally means “tree in a pot,” some ask whether outdoor or indoor bonsai gardening is preferable. There are many different opinions.

One idea is that trees are meant to stay outdoors and that placing them in a pot will not change them into indoor plants. A lot of people think if you bring bonsai indoors, they won’t live. While not essentially factual, you will most likely see a lot more improved if you allow your bonsai to grow out of doors instead of inside. Just keep in mind that you will be raising and nurturing a tree in a pot or tray. Trees require a great deal of sun and maintainence to flourish.

Simply because a tree is in a pot or tray rather than the ground won’t mean they don’t require the same maintainence. On the other hand, Bonsai still are trees and need to have an outdoor living environment. Trees require proper lighting, proper air circulation, excellent humidity levels and especially the cold winter weather to become inactive. Within the household, trees get relatively meager levels of lighting, and the dry air with low humidity levels produced by central heating could provoke a lot of issues.

There are the species that put up with indoor conditions, and with proper positioning and maintainence, they will flourish. There are a lot of different species that cannot remain strong enough to handle cold winter weather. However, these remain in the minority.

It is much more challenging to grow indoor Bonsai instead of outdoor Bonsai. For outdoor species, it is the exception that they expire right away when raised indoors, as they are able to live for months on end. On the other hand, they lose their vitality and good health gradually in unfavorable conditions they have to tolerate and become more vulnerable to insects and infection until they begin revealing external symptoms of illness; discolored leaves, loss of foliage and finally, death.

There are a lot of different plants that live well as indoor bonsai like aralia, ficus, serissa, Norfolk pine, boxwood and gardenia. Remember that these are all woody-stemmed plants and are able to have their limbs connected straight to the growth.

Subtropical and tropical types can never handle temperatures under 40-50 degrees F. These plants are able to be left out of doors while the temperatures remain above that. Having indoor lighting needs to be filtered sun rays from the east, west or southern window. Grow lights twelve hours each day function quite efficiently. During the summer season outdoors, place them in partial shade.

There are not ANY coniferous species that can handle indoor tilling for more than two or three years. This is crucial to remember since most prosperous bonsai trees originate with the coniferous species.

In the milder climates, temperate bonsai need to stay outside all year long. In the colder climates, temperate climate vegetation needs to be raised outside throughout the year’s warmer seasons, but it will require winter shelter. Growing temperate climate plants indoors is probable during the winter if they are provided with the needed period of dormancy.

The impulse to raise bonsai plants indoors is strong for starting horticulturists. Even though several customary species for bonsai might be grown indoors throughout the year, if they are provided with a substantial period of dormant rest, you need to know that this requires some abilities generally acquired from raising bonsai for several years. It is safe to say that, as a beginner, it’s probably best to start by raising your bonsai outdoors.

You don’t need many tools for bonsai. But some tasks are just quicker and easier with the right tools. You can expect to pay a few or a few hundred dollars for your tools. In most cases, the more you pay, the better the tool you’re buying is. You should probably start out with a sturdy yet inexpensive set of basic tools; you don’t need to go all out when you’re just starting. If you take good care of your tools you can expect them to be useful for a very long time.

You absolutely need three tools to start shaping your tree for bonsai.

First you’ll need scissors, since you’ll have to trim your tree with minimal space to work with. Keep your scissors sharp and don’t use them for anything but bonsai. Rather than spending a lot, go for small pruning shears at first. You can upgrade to specialized bonsai shears after you get the hang of everything.

Concave cutters are just about the most necessary tool for good bonsai tending and growing. When you cut a branch off your bonsai tree with a concave cutter, the branch will have a concave wound. Concave wounds heal much more quickly than straight-cut wounds and the way they callous makes it tough for any layperson to tell that you cut the tree at all. Suffice to say that you’ve got to have a good pair. You also need to get some wire cutters, though you don’t need them to start your bonsai work. Remember that you can’t keep a wire on forever; it has to be removed. With wire cutters, you can cut your wire all the way up to the tree itself and leave the tree unscathed. Make sure you’ve got a pair of these, too.

A variety of wire thicknesses is best for bonsai work. Try to get anodized copper wire. It bends very easily, but after you bend it, it holds very rigidly. Anodized copper wire is great for positioning and training your branches. The wiring section will go more in-depth about what wires to use and how. When you get experienced with bonsai, you’ll probably want to add a few more instruments to help you along. With these new tools, you’ll have an easier time doing some tasks and you can even expand how you work on your bonsai trees.

You use knob cutters much like concave cutters, but knob cutters have spherical heads; when they cut a branch it leaves a hollowed-out scar. Folding saws help you cut branches that knob or concave cutters aren’t big enough to get through. If you’ve got a big tree, you’ll really need a folding saw. When you’ve got a space that you can’t get big shears into – twiggy spots in your trees, for example – you’ll want to have small scissors. Plus, you’ll need these if you need to touch up smaller trees.

If you need to re-pot your bonsai tree, invest in a root rake. You’ll use it to get dirt out of the root ball by combing it out.

An incredibly useful tool for bonsai is one of the simplest things around: tweezers. Tweezers can remove obstacles and other troublesome objects from your bonsai growth, hold back new growths, prune your trees, and anything in between. Specialty bonsai tweezers tend to come with a little trowel that you can use for sowing seeds, patting down moss, and whatever else you need.

Of course, the most important part of bonsai is the tree itself. Is it better to grow your tree from a seed or start with a sapling? Either way is fine, as long as you’re doing it!